Kobori Senbei, a long-established snack factory and shop founded in 1908 (Meiji 41) in Mukae-machi, Kumamoto City, Japan, has recently closed its doors. A friend who remembered my love for their signature crackers, the peanut senbei, brought me the last batch as a souvenir from Kumamoto during her vacation to Hawai‘i.
These crackers hold a treasure trove of memories for someone like me, who was born and raised in Mukae-machi.
About Mukae-machi
The Shirakawa River, flowing east to west through Kumamoto City, once served as the outer moat of Kumamoto Castle. During the Edo period, there were few bridges. Until the Anseibashi Bridge was built in 1857, the Chōrokubashi Bridge (now part of Route 3) was the only crossing.
Across this bridge, from the castle’s town side, lies Mukae-machi, where I grew up. Mukae-machi was formed by relocating artisans from Tōri-chō (a district near the castle) into three areas: Takara-machi, Shindaiku-machi and Kōyaimashin-machi. Although these names have disappeared from maps, Takara-machi survives as the name of a bus stop, Mukae Takara-machi.
A famous old shop in the town
Kobori Senbei, a renowned and beloved snack shop in Mukae-machi since 1908, closed after the owner passed away. His son did not take over the business. The shop was known to everyone in Mukae-machi, and their handmade peanut senbei was a staple in our home and my grandmother’s house.
These simple crackers — made from peanuts, flour, eggs and sugar — had an irresistible taste. As a child, I loved eating them with milk. My maternal grandmother adored Kobori Senbei, and we often went there together. Even as an adult, I frequently bought them for her.
Changing landscape
Mukae-machi was once bustling with merchants and artisans. It was a lively area that served as a crossroads for various routes extending from Kumamoto Castle.
In the 1980s, my childhood memories of Mukae-machi include a variety of family-owned shops and eateries: a shoe store, a kimono boutique, a small print factory, a pachinko parlor, a post office, a pawnshop, a liquor store, a florist, a stationery shop, a vegetable store, a pharmacy, diners and izakaya bars, a ramen restaurant, an udon restaurant, and so on. Most of these have since vanished; now, even Kobori Senbei is no longer there.
A thoughtful friend, remembering my fondness for Kobori Senbei, brought me their last peanut senbei all the way to Hawai‘i. I savored each piece slowly, knowing it was the end of an era.
Kobori Senbei may be gone, but the memories they created in Mukae-machi will always remain in my heart.
